天鹅绒的由来 The origin of velvet

天鹅绒是以绒经在织物表面构成绒圈或绒毛的丝织物名。又称漳绒，因起源于中国福建省漳州地区而得名。明代已有大量生产，它是中国传统织物之一。有花、素两类，如北京明定陵出土的双面天鹅绒四合如意绣龙补女衣、蓝色单面天鹅绒女衣。

漳绒自明代传到南京江宁织造府后，发展成南京独有的雕花天鹅绒。 雕花天鹅绒的制造工艺极其复杂精细:由两组经线和两组纬线交织而成，色彩以紫红、墨绿、朱红、蟹青、古铜色为多，雕花绒的传统纹样有凤戏牡丹、五福捧寿、梅兰竹菊、三多、八仙等。 天鹅绒可用于制做服装、帽子、丝织天鹅绒毯和装饰物。2007年天鹅绒织造技艺又成功被列入《江苏省非物质文化遗产名录》。 南京汉唐织锦研究所所长殷志聪、丹阳春明漳绒厂厂长戴春明成为天鹅绒织造技艺代表性传承人。

Velvet is the name of a silk fabric with a velvet warp forming a ring or pile on the surface of a fabric. Also known as Zhangjiang, because it originated in Zhangzhou, Fujian Province, China, so named. It has been produced in large quantities in Ming Dynasty. It is one of the traditional Chinese fabrics. There are two types of flower and plain, such as double-sided velvet four-fit Ruyi embroidered dragon Bubu women's clothes unearthed from Ming Dingling Tomb in Beijing, and blue single-sided velvet women's clothes.

Zhangjiang velvet since the Ming Dynasty spread to Nanjing Jiangning weaving house after the development of Nanjing's unique carved velvet. The manufacturing process of carved velvet is extremely complex and fine: it is composed of two groups of warp threads and two groups of weft threads. The colors are purple red, dark green, vermilion, crab green and bronze. The traditional patterns of carved velvet include phoenix play peony, five fortunes holding longevity, plum, orchid, bamboo, chrysanthemum, Sanduo and eight immaculates. Velvet can be used to make clothes, hats, velvet blankets and ornaments. In 2007, the velvet weaving technique was successfully listed in the Intangible Cultural Heritage List of Jiangsu Province. Yin Zhicong, director of Nanjing Han-Tang Brocade Research Institute, and Dai Chunming, director of Danyang Chunming Zhangxi Factory, became representative inheritors of velvet weaving skills.